Visitors return to historic citadel used by ISIS fighters

Qalaat Jaabar, Syria – (AFP): Qalaat Jaabar, an ancient lake-side fortress dating back to the Middle Ages, is slowly regaining its status as a key cultural destination, attracting visitors from across war-torn Syria. The fortress had been held by the ISIS, being used for military activities, and temporarily lost its status as a popular historical site.

Families posed for pictures under the hot June sun, some perched on an ancient brick wall overlooking the banks of Lake Assad, a man-made reservoir in northern Syria’s Raqa province.

Abdullah al-Jaber was visiting Qalaat Jaabar with his children for the first time even though they live less than an hour away by car.

He said he would often show them photographs of his childhood trips to the citadel in the hope that they would one day visit it together.

“Their dream was to see Qalaat Jaabar,” the 41-year-old said with a smile.

“Today I brought them here to see it.”

The fortress is a landmark from the golden era of Islamic rule in the region, symbolic of the domination and prowess of Muslims under the Islamic empire. It has started attracting a growing number of visitors since the start of summer as security has improved in recent years.

The historic fortified site dates back to the Seljuk and Mamluk periods and is considered one of Syria’s most preeminent fortresses.

Qalaat Jaabar is connected to the mainland by a thin causeway. It has 35 bridges and a mosque and it used to shelter a museum with dozens of Islamic artefacts.

The site lies around 50 kilometres (30 miles) from Raqa city, once the de facto Syrian capital of ISIS’s self-proclaimed caliphate.

In 2017, US-backed Kurdish fighters retook the fortress from the jihadists, who had ruled over the area since 2014.

The hilltop citadel, which overlooked ISIS’s largest Syrian prison, was a strategic spot the group used to launch attacks and monitor movements.

“Residents were banned from visiting because it was a military area… but now it is recovering,” said a local Raqa resident.

Boat rides and picnics on Lake Assad’s sandy shores have also helped turn the citadel back into a popular destination for families.

Outside the towering walls, young men laid a fruit spread and smoked hookah pipes in the shade.

Radwan Kahawati said he came all the way from the coastal city of Latakia, a five-hour drive by car, to visit Qalaat Jaabar with his family.

“My daughter told me: ‘take us to Jaabar,’ because she learnt about it at school.”